Overview
Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain in North America, rising to 6,190 metres (20,310 feet) above sea level in the heart of Denali National Park, Alaska. In the Koyukon Athabaskan language, Denali means "The High One" and the mountain earns that name in every sense.
Situated just 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle, Denali is not merely a tall mountain. It is the coldest, most weather-exposed major peak on the planet. The sheer vertical rise from its base to summit approximately 5,500 metres is greater than any other mountain on Earth, including Everest. Storms can move in within hours. Temperatures at High Camp plummet to -40°C. Winds exceed 100 mph. Yet for experienced mountaineers, this is precisely what makes climbing Denali (Mount McKinley) one of the most coveted achievements in the world.
As one of the Seven Summits the highest peaks on each of the seven continents Denali sits alongside Everest, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Vinson Massif, Elbrus, and Carstensz Pyramid. It is widely considered the most technically demanding of the Seven Summits, not because of extreme technical difficulty, but because of the weight of the conditions: brutal cold, complete self-sufficiency, and weeks of glacier travel at altitude.
Denali (Mount McKinley) — Key Facts at a Glance
| Fact | Denali |
| Official Name | Denali (also historically Mount McKinley) |
| Location | Denali National Park & Preserve, Alaska, USA |
| Height / Elevation | 6,190 metres / 20,310 feet above sea level |
| Mountain Range | Alaska Range, South-Central Alaska |
| First Ascent | Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper & Robert Tatum — June 7, 1913 |
| West Buttress First Ascent | Bradford Washburn and team — 1951 |
| Continental Status | Highest peak in North America — one of the Seven Summits |
| Arctic Circle Distance | Approximately 320 km (200 miles) south of the Arctic Circle |
| Climbing Permits | NPS Mountaineering Special Use Fee: USD 440 (climbers 25+) / USD 340 (under 25) |
| Best Climbing Season | Late May to late June (optimal weather and light) |
| Summit Success Rate | Approximately 50% — one of the most demanding success rates of the Seven Summits |
| Primary Route | West Buttress Route (used by over 90% of all Denali climbers) |
The West Buttress Route
The West Buttress is the classic Denali route, used by over 90% of all climbers attempting the mountain. First climbed by legendary mountaineer Bradford Washburn in 1951, it is the most accessible, best-supported, and most logical line from base to summit but "accessible" on Denali is still a serious undertaking.
The route begins at Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp (2,195m / 7,200ft), reached by a breathtaking 30-minute ski-plane flight from Talkeetna, Alaska. From there, climbers travel north, ascending through a series of glacier carries and established high camps until reaching the summit at 6,190m (20,310ft). The route spans approximately 20 kilometres of glacier and ridge travel, with nearly 4,000 metres of vertical gain.
Camp by Camp Route Breakdown
| Camp | Location | Elevation (m) | Elevation (ft) | What Happens Here |
| BC | Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp | 2,195m | 7,200ft | Fly in from Talkeetna. NPS check-in. Establish camp. Glacier & crevasse orientation. Sled rigging. |
| C1 | 7,800ft Camp | 2,377m | 7,800ft | First glacier carry. Navigate Heartbreak Hill. ~8km, 365m elevation gain. Good acclimatisation warm-up day. |
| C2 | Kahiltna Pass / 9,500ft Camp | 2,896m | 9,500ft | Haul loads up the 549m Ski Hill. Double carries common. One of the most physically demanding load days. |
| C3 | 11,000ft / Motorcycle Hill Camp | 3,353m | 11,000ft | Beautiful alpenglow camp. Move all gear here. Back-carry cache retrieval day follows |
| C4 | 14,200ft / Genet Basin Camp | 4,328m | 14,200ft | THE heart of the expedition. NPS Ranger Station nearby. 2–3 acclimatisation days. Cache carry to 16,700ft. Most technical acclimatisation day here (Windy Corner traverse 700m gain). |
| C5 | High Camp | 5,242m | 17,200ft | Final camp. Build snow walls. Rest and acclimatise. Summit window assessment. Summit attempt departs from here. |
| SUM | Denali Summit | 6,190m | 20,310ft | Summit of North America. 360° panorama across the Alaskan wilderness. Return to High Camp or descend directly |
The Key Technical Sections
While the West Buttress is considered the least technical route on Denali, several sections demand full mountaineering competency and cannot be underestimated:
▸ Heartbreak Hill — The descent from Base Camp onto the main Kahiltna Glacier. Deceptively tiring with heavy sleds. Named by climbers who dragged loads up it on the return.
▸ Ski Hill (7,800ft to 9,500ft) — A 549m / 1,800ft gain in one carry day. Often done twice (double carry). Steep, relentless, and where many climbers first feel the weight of their commitment.
▸ Motorcycle Hill (11,000ft to 13,300ft) — Steep snow climbing with crampons and ice axe. Spectacular views open up as you gain the ridge. Named for the sound the wind makes around the corner.
▸ Windy Corner (13,300ft) — The most notorious section of the lower-upper mountain. A 700m elevation gain carry around a corner fully exposed to Alaskan weather. Crevasse hazard above. Rockfall risk increasing in recent seasons. Fixed ropes on this section.
▸ The Headwall (14,200ft to 17,200ft) — A 50-degree snow slope — the steepest on the route. NPS-maintained fixed lines provide security. This is where the West Buttress earns its reputation. Full crampon technique, ice axe, and mental commitment required.
▸ The Autobahn (17,200ft to Denali Pass) — A long, exposed traverse above High Camp. The name comes from the speed at which winds cross this section. Temperatures at their most extreme. Summit weather window is everything here.
▸ Summit Ridge to the Top — Above Denali Pass, the summit ridge demands careful navigation in high-altitude cold. Snow conditions vary by season. The final push to 6,190m is never easy — but the panorama across the Alaskan wilderness is unmatched on Earth.
